We sat down and spoke with the queen of natural, fluffy looking brows, Colette Weston of KOHL Studio to better understand Brow Health. We spoke about the do’s and don’t’s of grooming as well as the products that you should be incorporating into your daily routine, to ensure that you can maintain a fuller, Brooke Shields-esque brow for years to come. With brow lamination and brow tinting becoming part of many peoples beauty routines, there can come a sad price (i.e balding and breakage) if you are not looking after your brows best interests.
Firstly, can your brows be unhealthy and what is the main cause?
I think brow health is potentially one of the most overlooked beauty routines we have. No, I’m not trying to make life hard by adding in another beauty routine for us all but we expect so much from our eyebrows yet we rarely favour products that actually support and care for our brow hairs instead we tend to use only products that offer a short term boost to the brow but a likely longer term drying effect.
Most brow products will actually have drying effects on your brows due to the chemicals in the products - we’re talking soaps, gels, pomades and pencils. Equally, tinting will have the same effect. The effects of this won’t be immediately but certainly if we don’t balance the chemicals with some nourishment it will catch up with your brow over time.
The biggest culprit of unhealthy brows we see at KOHL is the impact of incorrectly done brow laminations. Due to how new brow lamination is in the AU market, there are a high number of untrained artists using lash lift solutions and don’t give proper aftercare and the increasing number of home lamination kits are leading to some majorly dried, damaged and broken hairs.
What do you recommend (product or ingredient) to rejuvenate and bring brows back to optimum health?
At KOHL - We use the principle, if you put it on your head, put it on your brows.
Split ends treatments and hair oils are amazing for dry brow hairs (hello, anyone getting brow laminations!). We always recommend using these products day to day but make sure your pick is paraben, sulphate free and combine this with bigger nourishing treatments such as OLAPLEX. You can apply when you do your bigger pamper sessions and pop some on your brows at the same time.
If you want to go all out with the brow health, you could make your own brow blend at home using black castor oil (It needs to be black castor not just regular) and mix in rosemary and lavender essential oils for the ultimate everyday brow nourishing oil. All not only have deeply nourishing properties but when used over can stimulate brow growth.
We advise people to avoid any skincare in the brow area which surprises most people as they assume a moisturiser for the skin will be beneficial in the brows. In reality, the increasing number of products with active ingredients means this can have the adverse effect on brows meaning it can be abrasive or drying on the hair. So stick with Haircare products only.
Are there any massage techniques that can stimulate blood flow to the brow area and ultimately promote hair growth?
Using a spoolie to brush the brow area is the best way to encourage hair growth in your brows. Consider it like dry brushing for your brows - daily dry brushing (don’t go crazy as you may damage the hair) which is just gently roughing the skin back and forth with your spoolie before the application of an oil or product we mentioned earlier is your best friend. It boosts blood flow to the area and therefore is thought to help boost hair growth in the brow overtime.
Waxing, plucking or threading. As an expert, is there one particular technique that you recommend over the other?
Well at KOHL we have a zero hair removal policy (the odd crazy being the absolute exception!) so I’d have to say none as we believe in seeing the beauty in an overgrown brow. Generally, our clients are coming to us looking for more brow not less but if someone really needs to remove any we recommend plucking out yourself as it gives you way more control.
What is your golden rule to growing out beautiful, full brows (your signature brow)?
COMMIT! Growing out your brows is like growing out bangs... you always have to go through the awkward, in-between phase to get the dream brow at the end. The sooner you accept that, the easier it becomes.
Growing your brows out takes time - I’m 3 years in with zero plucking or shaping and lots of brow care and some areas have only just decided to come to the party so it takes time for a lot of the smaller, finer hairs to make their return.
For anyone really struggling with the in between phase, the KOHL freehand brow fill is a great way to ‘get you through’ the awkward regrowth phase without too much trauma. We recommend clients leave at least 6 months without waxing, threading shaping so we can build around the areas that look like they will grow back over time we then hand sketch, custom added strokes to fill in the gaps in your brows for an ultra natural, full fluffy brow that will last up to 2 years.